Residential plumbing ยท Denver Metro, Colorado
Tankless water heater installation
A tankless install comes down to four things: sizing the unit for your peak winter demand, feeding it enough gas, venting it to the manufacturer's rules, and adding isolation valves so it can be descaled. Get those right and it will deliver hot water for a long time.
The unit pictured is one of our installs: a wall-mounted tankless heater with copper water connections, isolation valves, a yellow flexible gas connector and PVC venting. Every one of those pieces matters to how the unit performs and how easy it is to maintain.
Sizing for your household
Add up the hot fixtures that run at the same time in your busiest moment, then factor in how much the unit has to raise the temperature in winter. The U.S. Department of Energy notes typical tankless output of 2 to 5 gallons per minute, with gas models at the higher end. Undersized units are the most common tankless complaint, and they're avoidable.
Gas supply
Tankless burners draw a lot of gas when they fire, far more than a typical tank. The pipe size, length and the other gas appliances on the line all decide whether the existing supply is enough. If it isn't, the run to the heater is upsized as part of the install.
Venting and condensate
Non-condensing units vent hot exhaust through stainless or special vent pipe. Condensing units extract more heat, run cooler exhaust through PVC or polypropylene, and produce acidic condensate that needs a drain, usually through a neutralizer. Vent length, clearances and termination locations come from the manufacturer's instructions.
Placement and protection
Tankless units mount on a wall, which frees floor space. They need an electrical outlet, access for service, and protection from freezing if they're in a garage or near an exterior wall. Some units are rated for outdoor installation, though Colorado winters make indoor placement the usual choice.
Startup and handover
After installation we purge air, set the temperature, check the gas pressure and combustion, confirm the condensate drains, and walk you through the controls, error codes and how to use the isolation valves for descaling.
Install problems we look for
When we're called to an existing tankless unit, these are the install issues that show up most:
- Undersized gas line: the unit can't reach full output, so it struggles when two showers run.
- No isolation valves: descaling means cutting pipe, so it never gets done.
- Vent problems: wrong material, too long, or terminations too close to windows or the ground.
- Condensate not neutralized: acidic water going straight into a floor drain or onto concrete.
- Altitude setting skipped: the unit isn't configured for Front Range elevation.
- No freeze protection: in a garage or near an exterior vent.
When a tankless install makes sense
- You're replacing a tank and want endless hot water
- You want floor space back
- You're adding a bathroom or big tub
- Your current tank keeps running out
- You plan to stay in the home for years
How a visit goes
- Assess demand and spaceFixtures, people, location, gas, venting and power.
- Size and selectUnit output for winter, condensing or not.
- InstallGas, water, venting, condensate, isolation valves.
- Start up and trainSettings, error codes and descaling.
What's different here
- Cold incoming water. Winter supply water is much colder, which lowers a unit's flow at a given temperature. Size for winter.
- Altitude. Follow the manufacturer's altitude settings or derating.
- Low-NOx rule. New gas water heaters sold in Colorado must meet HB23-1161 limits.
- Freeze protection. Garage installs and exterior vent terminations need attention in cold snaps.
What affects the cost
Every home is set up differently, so we price the job after we've seen it. These are the things that move the number.
- Unit outputBigger households need bigger units.
- Gas line upsizingOften the largest variable.
- Vent routeWall vs. roof termination.
- CondensateA drain and neutralizer for condensing units.
- ElectricalAn outlet near the unit.
- Old tank removalAccess and disposal.
Questions we hear
How long does a tankless installation take?
Often a day, longer if the gas line has to be upsized or the vent route is complicated.
Do I need a bigger gas line for tankless?
Often, yes. Tankless burners draw much more gas than tanks. We calculate it from the pipe size, length and other appliances.
What's the difference between condensing and non-condensing?
Condensing units capture more heat, vent through plastic pipe and need a condensate drain. Non-condensing units vent hotter exhaust through metal vent pipe.
Can a tankless unit go outside?
Some are rated for outdoor use, but in Colorado indoor installation is usually the safer choice for freeze protection.
Will I get hot water faster?
Not necessarily. Hot water still has to travel through the pipes, so the wait at a far fixture is similar to a tank.
How long do tankless units last?
The U.S. Department of Energy says most last more than 20 years, with regular descaling.
Can my gas meter handle a tankless water heater?
Sometimes the meter itself limits total gas flow. If the house has several gas appliances, we check the load; a meter upgrade is arranged through the gas utility.
Do I need special water treatment for a tankless unit?
Not necessarily. Regular descaling handles typical Front Range water. Check your provider's annual report for hardness and follow the manufacturer's maintenance interval.
Related services
Water Heater Repair & Replacement
Tank water heaters that leak, run out of hot water or won't light. Repaired when it makes sense, replaced when it doesn't.
Tankless Water Heaters
Wall-mounted tankless installs sized for Colorado winters, plus repair and descaling for the units you already have.
Tankless water heater installation near you
We're based in Thornton and work across the Denver Metro:
Emergency plumber by city
Water leaking now? Shut off the main, then call.
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Call and tell us what's going on, or pick a time online. If it's not something we handle, we'll say so.